The technique for printing toiles came from an Irish printer in 1750. It was a function of a new dye development. The plates were etched....and turned up side down to print. Rheology is the physics of flow. ( the difference between your orange juice and your tooth paste)  So the dye stuffs need to stay in the grooves when plate is upside down...and then release when lowered onto the fabric. Oberkampf set up a print works at Jouy-en-Josas in 1760. He had apprenticed at various print works in Switzerland and became famous for Toiles de Jouy. The printing of cotton textiles was banned in France 1686-1759. There were two protected enclaves....Marseilles and Avignon..during the bans.

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